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Eating and drinking
 

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Northern food has been strongly influenced by Burmese cuisine, especially in curries such as the spicy kaeng hang lay ("Chiang Mai curry"), made with pork, ginger and coconut cream. Another favourite local dish is khao soi, a thick broth of curry and coconut cream, with egg noodles and meat. There's a good night market on Thanon Chang Klan.

Art Cafe , 263/1 Th Tha Pae. Popular farang hangout which exhibits local art. All the cafe favourites and a big veggie menu. Slow service but there are plenty of mags to browse. Mon 5-10pm, Tues-Sun 10am-10pm. Moderate to expensive.

Chiang Mai Vegetarian Centre , Th Aom Muang. A cavernous traditional pavilion serving good veggie dishes on rice, and desserts. Open Sun-Thurs 6am-2pm only. Inexpensive.

Huan Sontharee , 46 Th Wang Sing Kham. About 2km from the centre and there's no English sign, but well worth the extra distance. This convivial riverfront restaurant is owned by Thai folk singer Sontharee Wechanon, who entertains diners nightly, and serves up northern specialities. Evenings only until 1am. Closed Sun. Moderate.

New Lamduon Fahharm Khao Soi , 352/22 Th Charoenrat. Excellent, inexpensive khao soi prepared to a secret recipe. Also satay and som tam (spicy papaya salad). Open 9am-3pm.

Pat Thai stall , alleyway on Th Tha Pae, near Roong Ruang Hotel. Best pat thai in town, prepared with flaming theatricality and worth queuing for. Open 6-9pm. Inexpensive.

Ratana's Kitchen , 350/4 Th Charoenrat. Garden restaurant, run by a travel writer and his Thai wife, specializing in delicious northern dishes like khao soi and gaeng haeng lae. Moderate.

Riverside , 9 Th Charoenrat (tel 053/243239). Archetypal farang bolthole: candlelit terraces by the water, mid-priced Western and Thai food, and inexpensive draught beer.

Sala Kai , 41 Th Nawarot, off Th Phra Pokklao. Delicious and very popular satay and khao man kai - boiled chicken served with broth and garlic rice. Open 5am-2pm. Inexpensive.

Ta-krite Restaurant , 17 Soi 1, Th Samlarn, on the south side of Wat Phra Singh. Delicious and varied cuisine, in a maze of rooms around a courtyard. Inexpensive to moderate.

Western Art , 21/3 Th Sri Phum. Darkened hangout for drinking and live music: Chiang Mai's local independent music scene develops here, and there's the usual offering of Western covers.

Whole Earth , 88 Th Sri Dornchai. Mostly veggie dishes from Thailand and India, plus a big fish and seafood selection; occasional live music. Moderate to expensive.


Other useful information for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections):




Thailand,
Chiang Mai