A night or two at the former Railway Hotel, now the Hotel Sofitel (tel 032/512021; $80 and over) is a reason in itself to visit Hua Hin. It fronts the beach and remains much as it was in 1923, with classic colonial-style architecture and wide sea-view balconies. But it could be almost as fun staying in one of Hua Hin's other equally unusual accommodation options - a string of budget guesthouses built on converted squid piers, with rooms strung out along wooden jetties right over the waves: Bird (tel 032/511630; $5-15), Karoon Hut (tel 032/530737; $10-20) and Mod Guesthouse (tel 032/512296; $5-15) are all very near each other on Thanon Naretdamri, and all offer smallish en-suite rooms. Alternatively, try the inland All Nations at 10 Thanon Dechanuchit (tel 032/512747; under $20) which has large, spruce rooms with shared facilities and Internet access, or Phuen Guesthouse on Soi Binthabat (tel 032/512344; under $15) where small, basic rooms are crammed into a traditional wooden house.

Some of the best places to enjoy the local fish catch are the seafront restaurants on Thanon Naretdamri: Chao Lay, Mee Karuna and Thanachote are all recommended. Fish also features heavily at the night market, which sets up at sunset in the streets around the train station and at a spot close to the bus terminal. The biggest concentration of bars is along Soi Bintaban. Check your email in the convivial atmosphere of Cups & Comp Internet CafA© on Thanon Naebkehat (9am-12pm).