You don't come to Bodrum to ease your budget, and eating out is no exception. Best of the budget places are the Zetas Ocakbasi and the Kas Buhara Et Lokantasi , both on AtatA?rk Cad, which offer good pide and meat dishes and are frequented by local artists. Gemibasi , opposite the yacht harbour, on the corner of Firkayten Sok and Neyzen Tevfik, is good for a no-nonsense meat meal. The Karadeniz cake shop on Dr Alim Bey Cad does wonderful fruit and cream cakes. The same street boasts many of the town's fast-changing bars , which currently include the Robin Hood and the White House . There are also a number of good bars along Neyzen Tevfik Cad. For clubs , the Halikarnas disco at the east end of Cumhuriyet Cad is the most famous on the Aegean, while the M&M Marine Club is reputedly the biggest floating disco in the world; it sets sail at 2am when the onshore establishments close. Internet access is at Palmiye Internet CafA©, opposite the Marina.

Tickets for the ferry to Kos are best booked through the two main agents, beside each other at the ferry dock: Bodrum Express Lines (tel 0252/316 1087) handles hydrofoils ($20 one-way; $30 return), and Bodrum Ferryboat Association (tel 0252/316 0882) handles ferries ($12 one-way; $15 day return; $25 open return) as well as domestic services to DatA§a. You must pay a port tax of $10 on arrival in Greece if you're not returning the same day.