fiogf49gjkf0d MARMARIS
(
www.marmaris-online.com
) rivals Kusadasi as the largest and most developed Aegean resort. Its huge marina and proximity to Dalaman airport mean that tourists pour in more or less nonstop during the warmer months. According to legend, the place was named when Suleyman the Magnificent, not finding the castle here to his liking, was heard to mutter
"Mimari as
" ("Hang the architect") - a command which should perhaps still apply to the designers of the seemingly endless high-rises. Ulusal Egemenlik Bulvari cuts Marmaris in half, and the maze of narrow streets east of it is home to most things of interest, though little is left of the sleepy fishing village that Marmaris was a mere two decades ago. The bazaar is now little more than an area of covered streets, and only the
Kaleici
district, the warren of streets at the base of the tiny castle, offers a pleasant wander. The
castle museum
(Tues-Sun 8am-noon & 1-5.30pm; $1) has a worthwhile archeology and ethnography collection.
A new bus station has recently opened about 1.5km south of the town centre, from where you can pick up a
dolmus
to take you to the town centre, or it's a $3 taxi-ride. Many of the bus companies also offer a free transfer minibus to their offices in the centre. The
ferry
dock abuts Iskele Meydana, on one side of which stands the very helpful
tourist office
(summer daily 8.30am-7.30pm; winter Mon-Fri 8.30am-noon & 1-5.30pm), which dispenses town plans and
accommodation
details. The development of package tourism has ensured that hotels here are expensive and welcoming
pansiyons
few and far between - but the tourist office is tuned in to the needs of backpackers and can help out. The cheapest option is the
Interyouth Hostel
at Tepe Mahallesi 42, Sok 45, in the bazaar close to the Ataturk statue (tel 0252/412 3687,
interyouth@turk.net
; under ?5/$8), with around 180 beds in single, double and dormitory rooms, a lively rooftop cafe, and facilities including
Internet
access and a competitively priced travel service. Behind the huge Tansas shopping centre is the
Nadir
(tel 0252/412 1167; under ?5/$8) which has both en-suite
pansiyon
rooms and hotel rooms complete with air-conditioning and TV. Another good budget pension is the
Yesim
, west of the centre towards Uzunyala beach at Ataturk Cad 60, Sok 3 (tel 0252/412 3001; under ?5/$8), a well-maintained place offering en-suite rooms. More upmarket is the great-value
Marina Motel
(tel 0252/412 6598;
www.turquaz-guide.net
; ?5-10/$8-16), which has clean en-suite rooms and a breakfast terrace.
Getting a decent
meal
at a reasonable price is a challenge, although the fabulous
Kircicegi
on Kubilay Alpagun Cad behind the bazaar offers excellent traditional Turkish food at reasonable prices. Among the several options in the bazaar area close to the PTT,
Marmaris
and
Liman
are both acceptable and are frequented by the locals. To the west, Uzunyali harbours various pizza joints and a reasonable Turkish restaurant,
Turhan
, at Uzunyali 26. For
drinking
,
Panorama
, up on the castle hill, offers great views, and the nearby Haci Mustafa Sokagi (aka "Bar Street") contains a wealth of other drinking venues, such as
Davy Jones' Locker
and
Casablanca
. Lin Net, 38 Ataturk Cad opposite the Ataturk statue, has
Internet
access.
Ferries to Rhodes
($35 one-way or day-return; $50 open return; sometimes less in high season) run daily in high season, dropping to one a week in winter. Agents include Yesil Marmaris, Barbaros Cad 13 (tel 0252/412 2290), and Engin Turizm, 3rd floor, G. Mustafa Cad 16 (tel 0252/412 6944). There's a once-weekly
car ferry
(cars $150 one-way).
Other useful information
for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections):
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