The Ottoman castle at the heart of the old city, southwest of the modern centre, is a good landmark. The new city below is divided by two main streets, Ataturk Bulvar d, on which are situated most of the hotels and restaurants, and Lale Caddesi , turning into Gulzehir Caddesi to the north, where you'll find the main dolmus station. The remains of the citadel are no big deal in themselves but the views are good. On the side of the hill, the impressive eighteenth-century Damat Ibrahim Pasa Camii is set in a large precinct surrounded by narrow streets, and has a cool, dark interior enhanced by small decorative details. Opposite, the Damat Ibrahim Pasa Hamam (daily 6am-midnight; women only Wed 10am-4pm; men only at other times; $5) is also in good working order and well run. The Nevsehir Museum , on Yeni Kayseri Caddesi (Tues-Sun 8.30am-6pm; winter closes 5pm; $1), is worth the visit for a collection that includes three terracotta sarcophagi dating from the third to the fourth century AD, finds from the Phrygian and Byzantine periods, and Turkish carpets, kilims and looms.

The tourist office on Ataturk Bulvara, on the right as you head downhill towards Urgup (summer daily 9am-5.30pm; winter Mon-Fri 9am-5pm; tel 0384/213 3659), will arm you with a hotel price list and a map. There's also a private information office near the bus station, run by a tour company. Local dolmuses and those for the underground cities leave from the bus station. Several companies run organized tours of the area; try Agami on Lale Cad (tel 0384/212 7854), or Rock City, Urgup Cad 39 (tel 0384/212 0600, www.rockcitytours.com ). Pensions in Nevsehir are neither as cheap nor as good as elsewhere in Cappadocia. Hotel Sems (tel 0384/213 3597; under ?5/$8), on Ataturk Bulvara next to the Aspava Restaurant , is comfortable and friendly. A step up, Orsan , Ataturk Bulvara (tel 0384/213 2115; ?5-10/$8-16), is comfortable and has a swimming pool. Just opposite the Orsan on Yeni Kayseri Cad is the friendly and clean Hotel Seven Brothers (tel 0384/213 4979; ?5-10/$8-16). The nicest of the campsites in the region, the Koru Mocamp , is signposted off to the right as you turn from Nevsehir into Uchisar. For food , the Aspava Restaurant , Ataturk Bulvara 29, serves well-prepared dishes, and the Solen , just before Hotel Sems on Ataturk Bulvari, has a good choice of meze and kebabs. The Park-Bostan , in gardens just off Ataturk Bulvara, is more pricey but licensed. Uzay Internet is on Ataturk Bulvara opposite the Goreme Hotel .