In the centre, there's dorm accommodation at Berwick Backpackers in a well-maintained house at 56-58 Bridge St (tel 01289/331481, ). A highly recommended B&B is No.1 Sallyport , 41 Bridge St (tel 01289/308827; A?50-60), a seventeenth-century house next to the city walls (above the Bridge Street Bookshop) with elegant en-suite rooms. Other good options include Clovelly House , 58 West St (tel 01289/302337, ; A?40-50), the Riverview Guest House , 11 Quay Walls (tel 01289/306295; A?40-50), and Dervaig Guest House , 1 North Rd (tel 01289/307378, dervaig@btinternet.com ; A?40-50). The best central hotel is the King's Arms , Hide Hill (tel 01289/307454, king's_arms.hotel@virgin.net ; A?70-90), one of the myriad English coaching inns in which Charles Dickens is supposed to have slept and lectured. Across Berwick Bridge in Tweedmouth, you can't beat the delightful Old Vicarage Guest House , a spacious Victorian villa at 24 Church Rd (tel 01289/306909; under A?40).

For daytime snacks, coffee and lunches , head for Popinjays on Hide Hill or the cafA© on the ground floor of the Town Hall. Berwick's selection of restaurants will hardly set the pulse racing - try the Royal Garden , a Chinese restaurant in a rather grand converted pub at 35 Marygate, or the Magna Tandoori , 39 Bridge St - or head for Corvi's , a sparkling chippie with sit-down tables on West Street. The cosy Barrels Ale House , 59-61 Bridge St, at the foot of the Berwick Bridge (tel 01289/308013, ), has guest beers and an interesting programme of live music. The Maltings on Eastern Lane is Berwick's arts centre (tel 01289/330999, ), with a year-round programme of music, theatre, comedy, film and dance, and river views from its licensed cafA©.