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fiogf49gjkf0d A chief port on the Somerset coast,
MINEHEAD
quickly became a favourite Victorian watering-hole with the arrival of the railway, and it has preserved an upbeat holiday-town atmosphere ever since. Steep lanes link the two quarters of
Higher Town
, on North Hill, containing some of the oldest houses, and
Quay Town
, the harbour area. It is in Quay Town that the
Hobby Horse
performs its dance in the town's three-day May Day celebrations, snaring maidens under its prancing skirt and tail in a fertility ritual resembling the more famous festivities at the Cornish port of Padstow.
Midway between Higher Town and Quay Town, the
tourist office
at 17 Friday St, off the Parade (April-June, Sept & Oct Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm; July & Aug Mon-Sat 9.30am-5.30pm, Sun 10am-1pm; Nov-March Mon-Sat 10am-4pm; tel 01643/702624), has information on the moor and coast. If you want to
stay
in Minehead, try the budget
Avill House
on Townsend Road (tel 01643/704370; under ?40), a short walk from the seafront past the tourist office; or 100 yards further up on the same road, the more comfortable
Kildare Lodge
(tel 01643/702009; ?50-60), a reconstructed Tudor inn designed by a pupil of Lutyens. There's a
youth hostel
a couple of miles southeast, outside the village of Alcombe on the edge of Exmoor (tel 01643/702595).
Minehead is the terminus for the
West Somerset Railway
, which curves eastwards into the Quantocks. The line's first stop is about a mile from the old village of
DUNSTER
, three miles inland, and dominated by the towers and turrets of
Dunster Castle
(April-Sept Mon-Wed, Sat & Sun 11am-5pm; Oct Mon-Wed, Sat & Sun 11am-4pm; grounds daily: April-Sept 10am-5pm; Oct-March 11am-4pm; ?6; grounds only ?3; NT). Most of the castle's fortifications were demolished after the Civil War, following which it became something of an architectural showpiece, and Victorian restoration has made it more like a Rhineland Schloss than a Norman stronghold. A tour of the castle takes in various portraits of the Luttrells, owners of the house for six hundred years before the National Trust took over in the 1970s; a bedroom once occupied by Charles I; a fine seventeenth-century carved staircase; and a richly decorated banqueting hall. The grounds include terraced gardens and riverside walks - and drama productions are periodically staged here in the summer. The nearby hilltop tower is a folly,
Conygar Tower
, dating from 1776.
Dunster village preserves a few picturesque relics of its wool-making heyday, notably the octagonal
Yarn Market
, in the High Street below the castle (1609). At the end of Mill Lane, the three-hundred-year-old
water mill
(April-Oct daily 10.30am-5pm; ?2.20; NT) is still used commercially for milling the various grains which go to make the flour and muesli sold in the mill shop and riverside cafe, making this a good spot for lunch. For somewhere to
stay
, try the
Gables
33 High St (tel 01643/821496; no smoking; ?50-60), which has rooms under the eaves overlooking the Yarn Market. There's a
visitor centre
at the top of Dunster Steep by the main car park (Easter-Oct daily 10am-5pm; Nov-Easter Sat & Sun 11am-3pm; tel 01643/821835).
Other useful information
for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections):
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