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Pembroke
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The old county town of
PEMBROKE
(Penfro) and its fearsome castle sit on the southern side of the River Pembroke, a continuation of the massive Milford Haven waterway, described by Nelson as the greatest natural harbour in the world. Despite its location, Pembroke is surprisingly dull, with one long main street of attractive Georgian and Victorian houses, some intact stretches of medieval town wall but little else to catch the eye. The town grew up solely to serve the castle, the mightiest link in the chain of Norman strongholds built across southern Wales. The walled town, drawn out along a hilltop ridge, flourished as a port for Pembrokeshire goods, which were sold throughout Britain and exported to Ireland, France and Spain. The castle was destroyed by Cromwell during the Civil War, and though the town developed as a centre of leather-making, weaving, dyeing and tailoring, it never really regained its former importance.
Pembroke's history is inextricably bound up with that of its impregnable castle (daily: April-Sept 9.30am-6pm; March & Oct 10am-5pm; Nov-Feb 10am-4pm; ?3), founded by the Normans, but rebuilt between 1189 and 1245. During the Civil War, Pembroke was a Parliamentarian stronghold until the town's military governor suddenly switched allegiance to the king, whereupon Cromwell's troops sacked the castle after a 48-day siege. Yet despite Cromwell's battering, and centuries of subsequent neglect, Pembroke still inspires feelings of awe at its sheer, bloody-minded bulk, even if it is largely due to extensive restoration over the last century. The soaring gatehouse leads into the large, grassy courtyard around the vast, round Norman keep , 75ft high and with walls 18ft thick, crowned by a dome. In the domestic quarters, there's a dungeon tower, a Norman hall where the period arch has been disappointingly over-restored and reinforced, and the Oriel or Northern hall, a Tudor re-creation of an earlier antechamber. The intact towers and battlements contain many heavily restored communal rooms, now empty of furniture and, to a large extent, atmosphere too, although some of the rooms, mainly in the gatehouse, are used to house some excellent displays on the history of the castle and the Tudor empire.
Opposite the castle walls is the delightfully eccentric
Museum of the Home
, at 7 Westgate Hill, the northward continuation of Main Street (May-Sept Mon-Thurs 11am-5pm; ?1.50). Packed into the steep town house is a collection of utterly ordinary items dating from the eighteenth to the twentieth centuries. The objects are loosely gathered into themes, including toiletries, bedroom accessories and children's games - all demonstrated with great enthusiasm. Other useful information
for tourists (each section contains more specific sub-sections): |
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United Kingdom,
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