Good bars abound in downtown Anchorage, and the atmosphere varies as much as the clientele. Also visit the lively (and somewhat edgy) neighborhood of Spenard - on Spenard Road between Northern Lights Boulevard and International Airport Road. Shows, plays, opera and concerts take place at the Center for Performing Arts (tel 907/263-2787).

Bernie's Bungalow 626 D St at 7th Ave tel 907/276-8808. A very un-Alaskan hangout featuring the "lounge-a-licious" martini and a cocktail bar fashioned from an old wooden house. Latin and jazz grooves the smartly dressed set. Stylish seating is in short supply, so come early.

Chilkoot Charlie's 2435 Spenard Rd tel 907/272-1010. Sawdust-strewn barn that packs them in nightly for pricey drinks, pool, foosball, two floors of DJ-led dance and live music from 9.30pm.

Darwin's Theory 426 G St at 4th Ave tel 907/277-5322. Straightforward local bar good for moderately priced boozing and neighborly encounters with colorful local characters.

The Federal Building Cafeteria 222 W 7th at C St tel 907/277-6736. Breakfast and lunch cafeteria that's about the best budget value downtown, certainly a cut above the fast-food joints and more filling. Steaming clam chowder or one of their entrees cost around $5.

Glacier Brewhouse 737 W 5th St tel 907/274-2739. Hugely popular restaurant, bar and microbrewery serving wonderful food and drink. At least half a dozen toothsome house-brewed beers accompany alder-wood-baked gourmet pizza ($11), spit-grilled three-peppercorn prime rib ($20), or steamed Alaskan King crabs ($30).

Humpy's 610 W 6th Ave tel 907/276-2337. Popular watering hole with live music and a strong college bar feel. The likes of charbroiled salmon, burgers, soups and salads (mostly under $10) are helped down with local microbrews plus English and Belgian bottled beers, and over thirty top-shelf single malts.

L'Aroma at New Sagaya's City Market 900 W 13th Ave at I St tel 907/274-6173. Trendy and spendy grocery store, deli and cafA© with a great selection that ranges from organic vegetables and great cheeses to pizza, wraps, Thai dishes and good coffee. The nearest groceries to downtown.

The Marx Bros. CafA© 627 W 3rd Ave tel 907/278-2133. The best all-round fine dining downtown served up in a historic house with views of the water. Start on the likes of sautA©ed alligator with crawfish tails followed by their signature baked halibut rolled in a macadamia nut crust and curry sauce and chutney. Entrees are around $25.

Moose's Tooth 3300 Old Seward Hwy at 33rd Ave tel 907/258-2537. A perennial favorite, always alive with diners tucking into some of the town's best gourmet pizza.

Mr Whitekey's Fly By Night Club 3300 Spenard Rd at 32nd Ave tel 907/279-7726. Zany cabaret and live music venue which, throughout summer, hosts The Whale Fat Follies (June to mid-Sept Tues-Sat 8pm; $12-18; 16 and over only), a satirical and occasionally bawdy slant on Alaska.

Snow City CafA© 1034 W 4th Ave tel 907/272-6338. Foremost among the city establishments that successfully manage to combine several roles drawing in the coffee set, lunching office workers and pre-theater diners. All-day breakfast - French toast for $5, granola for $3 - are supplemented by Thai halibut, rosemary chicken, cedar plank salmon or vegetarian meatloaf. Live music on Friday night.