The geographical, political and financial center of Arkansas, LITTLE ROCK is at the meeting point of its two major regions, the northwestern hills and the eastern Delta. The town today has a relaxed, open feel, a far cry from the dramatic events of 1957. In the rapidly expanding River Market District , 500 E Markham St, the Museum of Discovery , geared largely toward kids (MonSat 10am5pm, Sun 14.30pm; $5.95, free first Fri each month 5pm9pm; tel 501/396-7050), is a welcome and fun addition. This area contains the majority of Little Rock's activity, with a series of restaurants, bars and the actual farmers' market on the river. Behind the museum is Riverfront Park , a thin strip of greenery and fountains that runs for several blocks here, a commemorative sign marks the "little rock" for which the city is named, which is not particularly striking.

In MacArthur Park the Arkansas Art Center features work by local and international artists (MonSat 10am5pm, first Fri of every month 10am8.30pm, Sun 11am5pm; free). Also in the park is a Military Museum that has exhibits from the Civil War on forward.

The white Old State House Museum , 300 W Markham St, surrounded by smooth lawns and shaded by evergreens, backs onto the Arkansas River. Inside, displays cover all periods of Arkansas history, but the most impressive rooms are the two senate chambers, restored to their original grandeur (MonSat 9am5pm, Sun 15pm; free). This was where Clinton announced his bid for the presidency on October 3, 1991, and made his acceptance speech thirteen months later. There's now a special exhibit in the museum on his path to the presidency.