Buzzard Billy's 100 Court Ave tel 515/280-6060. Offers good Cajun cuisine, including alligator dishes; catfish, shrimp and oyster meals are also a specialty. It's packed on Thursdays for "Crappy Beer Night."

Java Joe's 214 4th St tel 515/288-5282. Late-closing coffee bar and sandwich place attached to an artist's gallery, featuring live entertainment at weekends. Internet access available. Open until 11:30pm on weekdays, 1am on weekends.

Papa's Planet 208 3rd St tel 515/284-0901. This bar/nightclub is a favorite weekend gathering place for young locals, with guitar bands at low cover charges and an outdoor street patio.

Spaghetti Works 310 Court Ave tel 515/243-2195. Spacious Italian outfit with original interior decor (it has variously served as a glove factory, hat millinary and fruit market). The all-you-can-eat pasta dishes from $5 are great value.

Stella's Blue Sky Diner 400 Locust St, in the Capitol Square building tel 515/246-1953. Kitsch diner decked out in lurid pinks, turquoises and yellows. Wash down burgers and fries ($4) with divine chocolate, peanut butter and banana malts. A must for lunch, but be prepared for long lines. Mon-Sat 8am-6pm.