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Eating
 

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Circle Centre , the swish mall at Illinois and Washington, houses dozens of places to eat, but most of these are chains. You'd do better to stick to the more established restaurants downtown or head up to Broad Ripple Village (bus #17) at College Avenue and 62nd Street, packed with bars, cafes, galleries and shops. At lunchtime, City Market , 222 E Market St, is a maze of lunch counters and tables where you can feast cheaply on all sorts of international food amid a cacophonous din.

Bazbeaux 334 Massachusetts Ave, downtown tel 317/636-7662 and 832 E Westfield Blvd, Broad Ripple Village tel 317/255-5711. The best pizzas in town are offered with a great range of toppings.

Elbow Room 605 N Pennsylvania St tel 317/635-3354. This pub serves specialty sandwiches and lots of import beers.

India Garden 830 Broad Ripple Ave tel 317/253-6060. Good Indian curries with a noted lunchtime buffet.

Rathskeller Restaurant 401 E Michigan St tel 317/636-0396. Continental dishes include lots of German specialties, set in the historic Atheneum, built in 1892 as a cultural center for the city's German-speaking population.

Ruthellen's 825 N Pennsylvania St tel 317/631-RUTH. The wildly baroque yet cozy atmosphere for upscale dining attracts a mixed clientele. Fri-Sat night piano bar. Closed Mon.

St Elmo Steak House 127 S Illinois St tel 317/635-0636. One of the most famous steak restaurants in the meat-mad Midwest, it is rather pompous and expensive. Expect to pay $25-30 for a meal.

Shapiro's 808 S Meridian St tel 317/631-4041. The landmark deli is just a few blocks off downtown. Fill up at the counter with lox, tongue or other specialties and eat in an old-style cafeteria atmosphere. Leave room for the huge desserts.


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