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Eating
 

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Italian food dominates St Louis cuisine, from humble salami sellers upwards. Otherwise most of the friendly Irish pubs serve beef sandwiches and stew, while University City's Delmar Boulevard offers African, Middle Eastern, Chinese, Indian and other ethnic places. More expensive cafAŠs are located in Laclede's Landing , and the Central West End has acquired a scattering of upmarket espresso bars such as the Coffee Cartel , 2 Maryland Plaza.

Duff's 392 N Euclid Ave, Central West End tel 314/361-0522. Small, relaxed and moderately priced, with a French-flavored international menu, homemade desserts and Sunday brunch. Outdoor seating available.

John D McGurk's Irish Pub 1200 Russell Blvd at 12th St, Soulard tel 314/776-8309. Freshly baked soda bread, corned beef'n'cabbage, Irish stew and imported Guinness on offer. Live Irish music every night.

O'Connell's Pub 4652 Shaw Ave at Kingshighway Blvd tel 314/773-6600. The best burgers in the city, and the beef sandwiches aren't bad either. Near the Hill district.

Red Sea 6511 Delmar Blvd, U City tel 314/863-0099. Cheap and cheerful Ethiopian restaurant, serving berbere sauce with everything. The decor is basic and the service slow, but the food's excellent.

Rigazzi's 4945 Daggett Blvd, the Hill tel 314/772-4900. Popular trattoria, famous for "frozen fish bowls" of beer. Over thirty different pasta dishes on the menu, from $9, plus pizzas, veal, chicken and steak.

Saleem's 6501 Delmar Blvd, U City tel 314/721-7947. "Where garlic is king" and St Louisians reckon you get the best ethnic food in the city. Lebanese and continental menu.

Ted Drewes Frozen Custard 6726 Chippewa Ave tel 314/481-2652 and 4224 S Grand Blvd tel 314/352-7376. A legendary slice of Americana. Try a "concrete" - an ice cream so thick it won't budge if you turn your cup upside down. Open March-Dec.


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