Much of the accommodation is B&Bs : when the movie stars come to town, they stay at the Graystone Inn on Third and Dock, renowned for its elegance and romantic grandeur. (tel 910/763-2000, fax 910/763-5555, ; $160-200); another nice alternative is the Inn on Orange , 410 Orange St (tel 910/815-0035 fax 910/762-2279, ; $100-130), which has spacious rooms, a pool and garden. Right on the riverfront, there's the excellent Best Western Coastline Inn , 503 Nutt St (tel 910/763-2800, fax 910/763-2785, ; $75-100), which delivers a free continental breakfast and newspaper to your room. You could also head a dozen miles east to Wrightsville Beach , where among the string of weatherworn condos and pricey resort hotels, the Silver Gull , 20 E Salisbury St, offers comfortable motel rooms next to the fishing pier (tel 910/256-3728, fax 910/256-2909, ; $100-130), though nowhere is particularly cheap, apart from the usual budget motels on Hwy-17.

For a quick meal try the Underground Sandwich Shoppe , 103 Market St (tel 910/763-9686). For dinner Paleo Sun CafA© , 35 N Front St (tel 910/762-7700), has something for almost everyone as well as live jazz, etc. The same can be said for the CafA© Phoenix , 9 S Front St (tel 910/343-1395), with pasta, seafood, steaks and vegetarian selections and, possibly, the occasional film star. Elijah's , 2 Ann St at Chandler's Wharf (tel 910/343-1448), is a popular seafood grill with riverfront dining. Wilmington has a fairly thriving nightlife - as well as a small gay scene. A fun-loving crowd heads to the Reel CafA© , 100 S Front St (tel 910/251-1832), to hear live music or a DJ and eat on the patio, while the nearby Barbary Coast , 116 Front St (tel 910/762-8996), is a rough hole-in-the-wall that has gained some cachet from being Mickey Rourke's favorite spot in town. Thalian Hall , 310 Chestnut St (tel 1-800/523-2820, ), built in 1858, is a vibrant performing arts center hosting dance, music, theatre and film.