Halfway up the mountains, the biggest settlement, SILVER CITY , lies 45 miles north of I-10 at the junction of US-180 from Deming and Hwy-90 from Lordsburg. The Spanish came here in 1804, sold the Mimbreno Indians into slavery, and opened the Santa Rita copper mine , just east of town below the Kneeling Nun monolith; but the town was re-established in 1870 as a rough-and-tumble silver camp - Billy the Kid spent most of his childhood here. A fine selection of ornate old buildings is scattered along elm-lined avenues and across the surrounding hills. The excellent Silver City Museum at 312 W Broadway (Tues-Fri 9am-4.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am-4pm; free) tells the boom-and-bust tales, and holds fine specimens of Casas Grandes pottery , beautiful Navajo rugs, and basketry from all the major Southwest tribes. Three blocks east, the original Main Street was washed away in a great flood and has become the cottonwood-shaded Big Gulch Park .

In downtown Silver City, the Carter House , 101 N Cooper St (tel 505/388-5485; up to $75), is a HI-AYH youth hostel that doubles as a B&B , with $13 dorm beds ($16 nonmembers) and five en-suite private rooms; be sure to call in advance, however, as the house was up for sale at the time of writing. Just outside town, Bear Mountain Guest Ranch (tel 505/538-2538 or 1-877/620-BEAR, ; $75-100) is a large 1920s ranch, now run as a B&B by the Nature Conservancy, that makes a great base for bird-watching, cycling, mountain biking or cross-country skiing. Bullard Street in the heart of town holds atmospheric saloons and cafes like the Silver Cafe at 514 N Bullard (tel 505/388-3480).