Cleveland is concentrated in different pockets and, as the potentially dangerous areas are scattered pretty wide (it is not safe, for example, to stray into the streets around the three-block-deep Cleveland Clinic, very close to the much-frequented University Circle), you're safest in a car . The RTA runs an efficient bus service ($1.25 or $1.50 for express services; 50A? within downtown) and a small Rapid train line ($1.50) until about 12.30am. A light rail system - the Waterfront Line - connects Terminal Tower, the Flats, the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and other downtown sights; it costs $1.50 and runs every fifteen minutes between 7am and midnight. City tours , run by Trolley Tours of Cleveland, leave from the Powerhouse on the west bank of the Flats (May-Oct daily; Nov-April Fri & Sat; $9 for 1hr, $14 for 2hr, reservations required; tel 216/771-4484 or 1-800/848-0173, ).

Maps and information can be had in advance from the Cleveland CVB (Mon-Fri 9am-9pm; tel 1-800/321-1004, ). The handiest visitor centers are in the lobby of the Terminal Tower in Public Square (summer daily 10am-5pm; rest of year Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm, Sat & Sun 11am-4pm; tel 216/621-7981) and on the east bank of the Flats next to Hooter's (summer daily 11am-7pm; winter daily 11am-4pm; tel 216/621-2218).