The main reason to visit SALEM is to see the modern, white Vermont-marble State Capitol (MonFri 7.30am5.30pm, Sat 9am4pm, Sun noon4pm; free), whose cupola is topped by a large gold-leaf pioneer, axe in hand, eyes to the West. At the entrance, there's a marble carving of explorers Lewis and Clark processing regally towards the Willamette Valley. There are hourly summer tours of the building as well (9am4pm; free). Nearby, tree-lined Willamette University is the oldest university in the West. Historic Mission Mill Village , 1313 Mill St SE (TuesSat 10am3pm; $5), is also worth seeing for its collection of historic pioneer buildings.

Greyhound is convenient at 450 Church St NE, as well as Amtrak at 13th and Oak. The visitors center (tel 503/581-4325 or 1-800/874-7012, www.scva.org ) is in Mission Mill Village. The university area is not a great scene for food ; you're better off downtown, where the Dairy Lunch Caf , 347 Court St at Liberty (tel 503/363-6433), is a classic 1960s diner with tasty entrees; Jonathan's Oyster Bar and Long Bar , 120 Liberty St (tel 503/362-7219), serves fresh seafood, cajun and southwestern cuisine; and the pleasant Arbor Caf , 345 High St NE (tel 503/588-2353), has a nice range of pasta, sandwiches and salads.