The main visitor center at 1200 Oak St (tel 1-800/356-3016) provides events listings and details of accommodation; there's also a branch at 2090 Hwy-501 E in Conway. Of the countless motels , the Compass Cove , 2311 S Ocean Blvd (tel 1-800/228-9894, fax 843/448-5444, ; $100-130), with turquoise pools and ocean views from the more expensive tower rooms, and the similar Sands Beach Club further north, at 9400 Shore Drive (tel 843/449-1531 or 1-800/845-2202, fax 843/444-9344, ; $130-160), are two solid choices. During the summer, rates increase dramatically; if traveling by yourself or with one other person it may be cheaper to stay in Conway about 11 miles to the west of US-501.

With ten campgrounds and two state parks, Myrtle Beach calls itself the "Seaside Camping Capital of the World"; this might be an apt description if you have a fairly broad definition of camping. You'll find most of the commercial campgrounds concentrated along Kings Highway - on this road in North Myrtle Beach you'll find the Barefoot Camping Resort , 4825 Hwy-17 (tel 1-800/272-1790). Hours tend to fluctuate so call ahead.

If you want burgers, standard diner meals, "surf 'n' turf" in a themed bar or any one of a zillion varieties of ethnic fast food, you'll have no problem finding places to eat. Well-prepared seafood can be had at the classier Sea Captain's House at 3200 N Ocean Blvd (tel 843/448-8082), or at a number of similar establishments in Murrells Inlet; for a Mediterranean meal and a view of art, stop by the Collector's Cafe , 7726 N Kings Hwy (tel 843/449-9370).

As for nightlife , Celebrity Square at Broadway at the Beach, between 21st and 29th avenues off the Hwy-17 bypass (tel 843/444-3200), is a compact area of bars and clubs, while the House of Blues , Barefoot Landing, 4640 Hwy-17 (tel 843/272-3000), attracts top national rock, reggae and roots talent. More kitschy are the glut of country music variety shows ; the longest-running is the Carolina Opry , Hwy-17 N (tel 843/238-8888), where powerful singers belt out corny, family-oriented rock'n'roll, country and bluegrass with a couple of hymns thrown in for good measure. Next door at the Dolly Parton-owned Dixie Stampede (tel 1-800/433-4401) you can see a lighthearted, surreal take on the Civil War with some impressive horsemanship, all while chowing down on a huge dinner without utensils.