Arriving by train from Ho Chi Minh City and all points south or from China you exit the main station onto Le Duan Avenue. However, trains from the east and north (Haiphong, Lang Son and Lao Cai) pull into platforms at the rear of the main station, bringing you out onto Tran Quy Cap. There's a left-luggage office opposite ticket counter number 1 ($1 per day). There are a few hotels nearby that are useful if you arrive late or have an early start; otherwise pick up a cyclo or xe om (motorbike taxi) for under $1 to the Old Quarter.

Long-distance buses from the south use Giap Bat station , 6km south of town on Giai Phong Avenue; a xe om to the centre will cost less than $1. Services from the northeast arrive at Gia Lam station , 4km away on the east bank of the Red River; a xe om to the centre costs less than $1. Buses to and from the northwest use Kim Ma station , located at the junction of Giang Vo and Kim Ma, 2km west of the centre. However, some buses, particularly private services , drop passengers at more central spots in the city. Buses from Hoa Binh sometimes terminate in Ha Dong, 10km from the centre; jump on one of the waiting city buses into town (40min). Always check at the station a day or two before you want to travel, especially for destinations north and west of Hanoi where public services are crumbling in the face of independent operators.

State-run tourist offices such as Vietnamtourism and Vinatour are unreliable; it's best go to one of the reliable travellers' cafA©s, such as Love Planet or Green Bamboo for information on visas, tours and transport. Many cafA©s also arrange walking tours of the city ($10 for the morning including lunch).