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Airlines Aeroflot, 4 Trang Thi (tel 04/825 6742); Air France, 1 Ba Trieu (tel 04/825 3484); Cathay Pacific, 49 Hai Ba Trung (tel 04/826 7298); China Airlines, 18 Tran Hung Dao (tel 04/824 2688); China Southern Airlines, 27 Ly Thai To (tel 04/826 9233); Emirates, 330 Ba Trieu (tel 04/974 0040); Japan Airlines, 1 Ba Trieu (tel 04/826 6693); Lao Aviation, 41 Quang Trung (tel 04/822 9951); Malaysia Airlines, 15 Ngo Quyen (tel 04/826 8820); Pacific Airlines, 100 Le Duan (tel 04/518 1503); Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS), 49 Hai Ba Trung (tel 04/934 2626); Singapore Airlines, 17 Ngo Quyen (tel 04/826 8888); Thai International, 44b Ly Thuong Kiet (tel 04/826 6893); Vietnam Airlines, 1 Quang Trung for domestic and international services (tel 04/825 0888), and with sales agents at 112 Cau Go (tel 04/825 9811) and 30a Ly Thuong Kiet (tel 04/826 9130).

Banks and exchange Vietcombank head office is at 23 Phan Chu Trinh, for all services including cash withdrawals on credit cards and telegraphic transfers. Branch at 78 Nguyen Du with agents all over town. ANZ Bank, 14 Le Thai To, boasts Hanoi's first 24-hr ATM which dispenses both US$ and dong for Visa, Visa Plus and MasterCard holders. They also offer a safety deposit service from $10 per month. Other banks with counter facilities are: Citibank, 2nd Floor, 17 Ngo Quyen (Citibank card-holders can use the ATM to access US$ for no charge); Standard Chartered, 8th Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung; VID Public Bank, 2 Ngo Quyen and Vietincombank at 10 Le Loi. Money changers in and around the GPO offer higher rates than banks, but will try to befuddle you with stacks of small denominations - watch out for notes folded to count twice. You can also change money at the Mocca CafAŠ, in gold shops and at the currency exchange at 25 Luong Ngoc Quyen.

Books and bookshops Apart from small outlets in top-class hotels, Trang Tien is the main area for books. Otherwise try The Foreign Language Bookshop at 61 Trang Tien; Tien Phong at 175 Nguyen Thai Hoc; Hanoi Bookshop, 34 Trang Tien; Fahasa, 22b Hai Ba Trung and Xunhasaba, 32 Hai Ba Trung.

Embassies and consulates Australia, 8 Dao Tan, Van Phuc (tel 04/831 7755); Austria, 104 Tran Hung Dao (tel 04/822 4005); Belgium, Daeha Business Centre, 360 Kim Ma (tel 04/831 5240); Burma, A3 Van Phuc (tel 04/845 3369); Cambodia, 71 Tran Hung Dao (tel 04/825 3788); Canada, 31 Hung Vuong (tel 04/823 5500); China, 46 Hoang Dieu (tel 04/845 3736); Denmark, 19 Dien Bien Phu (tel 04/823 1888); Finland, 31 Hai Ba Trung (tel 04/826 6788); France, 57 Tran Hung Dao (tel 04/825 2719); Germany, 29 Tran Phu (tel 04/845 3836); India, 58-60 Tran Hung Dao (tel 04/824 4989); Indonesia, 50 Ngo Quyen (tel 04/825 7969); Israel, 68 Nguyen Thai Hoc (tel 04/843 3140); Italy, 9 Le Phung Hieu (tel 04/825 6256); Japan, 27 Lieu Giai (tel 04/846 3000); Lao PDR, 22 Tran Binh Trong (tel 04/825 5476); Malaysia, Fortuna Hotel, 6b Lang Ha (tel 04/831 3400); Netherlands, 360 Kim Ma (tel 04/831 5650); New Zealand, Daeha Business Centre, 360 Kim Ma (tel 04/824 1481); Norway, 7th Floor, Metropole Centre, 56 Ly Thai To (tel 826 2111); Philippines, 27b Tran Hung Dao (tel 04/825 7948); Russia, 58 Tran Phu (tel 04/845 4632); Singapore, 41-43 Tran Phu (tel 04/823 3966); Spain, Daeha Business Centre, 360 Kim Ma (tel 04/771 5207); Sweden, 2 Nui Truc, Van Phuc (tel 04/845 4825); Switzerland, 77b Kim Ma (tel 04/823 2019); Thailand, 63-65 Hoang Dieu (tel 04/823 5092); UK, 5th Floor, 31 Hai Ba Trung (tel 04/825 2510); USA, 7 Lang Ha (tel 04/843 1500).

Emergencies Dial 113 for police,114 for fire service and 115 for an ambulance.

Hospitals and clinics Vietnam International Hospital, 1 Phuong Mai, offers international-class facilities at their outpatients clinic (tel 04/574 0740; Mon-Fri 8am-5.30pm, Sat am only; $35-60 consultation fee), plus dental and optical care, surgery and a 24-hr emergency and ambulance service (tel 04/574 1111). Hanoi Family Practice in Van Phuc (Building A1, 109-112 Kim Ma) has an outpatients clinic (tel 04/843 0748; Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm, Sat am only; $50 standard consultation fee) and 24-hr emergency service (tel 09040 1919). The emergency assistance company, AEA International at 31 Hai Ba Trung, also provides routine care to travellers (tel 04/934 0555; Mon-Fri 8.30am-7pm, Sat am only; $55-65 consultation fee). Of the local hospitals, your best bet is the Vietnam-Korea Friendship Hospital at 12 Chu Van An (tel 04/843 7231), which has some English-speaking doctors and charges around $15-30 initial fee. The Institute of Acupuncture is at H3, Vinh Ho, Thai Thinh (tel 04/853 3881).

Immigration Office 40 Bang Hai with a branch office at 89 Tran Hung Dao.

Internet access Tony's Oldstreet CafAŠ, 118 Hang Bac (300d per min).

Post offices The GPO occupies a whole block at 75 Dinh Tien Hoang. International postal services, including parcel dispatch (8am-noon & 1-4pm) and poste restante (Mon-Sat 7.30am-noon & 1-4pm; $10 yearly and 500d per letter), are located in the southernmost hall; next entrance up is for telephone and fax services (6.30am-10pm; fax 24-hr; $3.5 per minute to call the UK; $3 per minute to Australia and the US; prices fall by 50 percent 7pm-7am Sun). The main entrance leads to general mail services. To collect a parcel, take your passport and 3000d to the poste restante section. Useful sub-post offices are at 66 Trang Tien, 66 Luong Van Can, 18 Nguyen Du, D2 Giang Vo and at Hanoi train station.

Travel agencies Many travellers' cafAŠs organize similar bargain-basement tours to the Perfume Pagoda ($17), Ha Long Bay (2-3 days; $20-40) and Sa Pa (4 days; $40). They also do car rental, visa services and airport transport. Recommended agencies include: Love Planet, 18 Hang Bac (tel 04/828 4864), Red River Tours, 73 Hang Bo (tel 04/826 8427), Lonely Planet, 33 Hang Be (tel 04/825 0974), Real Darling, 33 Hang Quat (tel 04/826 9386), and Green Bamboo, at 42 Nha Chung (tel 04/826 8752).


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