Within Japan, JNTO operates four Tourist Information Centres ( TIC ), all of which have English-speaking staff. These offices are located in central Tokyo, Tokyo's Narita airport, Kansai International airport and Kyoto (see individual city accounts for details). They provide a similar range of information as JNTO's overseas offices, covering the whole of Japan as well as their local area, and can usually answer all sorts of individual queries. Not surprisingly, you may have to queue at busy times. The offices in Narita, Kyoto and Kansai airport provide accommodation booking services (no commission), while the Tokyo TIC is located next door to the Welcome Inn Reservation Centre . Though the staff will help sort out routes and timetables, they can't make travel reservations, nor usually sell tickets to theatres, cinemas and so on (some occasionally have discounted tickets on offer); instead, they'll direct you to the nearest appropriate outlet. It's worth noting that much of their printed English-language information isn't always available in the regions, so stock up while you can.

Local tourist offices with English-speaking staff are called " i " centres , of which there are now nearly one hundred in 67 towns and cities, usually located in or close to the main train station. In practice, the amount of English information available - whether written or spoken - is a bit hit-or-miss, but at least the staff should be able to assist with local maps, hotel reservations (some charge a small commission) and simple queries. Next level down are the ordinary tourist information offices, where there's little chance of getting English-language assistance. Nevertheless, they can usually supply maps, transport information and, sometimes, help with accommodation.

If you're stuck, JNTO runs the excellent Japan Travel-Phone (daily 9am-5pm; toll-free tel 0088-224800), which provides English-language information and assistance, not only on travel-related topics. You can call from any grey or green public phone - insert a phone card or A?10 piece to get the dial tone - except within Tokyo and Kyoto, where you should phone the appropriate TIC at a local call rate (A?10 per minute).

Another useful source of English-language information is the Goodwill Guides , groups of volunteer guides located in nearly thirty cities mostly in central and western Japan. The guides' services are free - although you're expected to pay for their transport, entry tickets and any meals you have together - and the language ability obviously varies. But they provide a great opportunity to learn more about Japanese culture and to visit local restaurants, shops and so forth with a Japanese speaker. The TICs have a list of groups and their contact details, or the local information office should be able to help with arrangements; try and give at least two days' notice.

A number of cities also operate a Home Visit System , where English-speaking Japanese families welcome foreigners into their homes for a couple of hours, usually after the evening meal. Again, arrangements can be made through the local "i" centre or TIC a few days in advance.