Despite the end of soaring inflation, prices in this guide are given in US dollars, a fairly stable measure of real costs - but in practice they're charged and paid for in rubles. It is illegal to pay in foreign currency. The black market offers nothing but risks: always change money in an official bank or currency exchange. Most banks are open Mon-Sat 10am-6/8pm, or later.

ATMs are now found in plenty, and using your credit or debit card to obtain cash from them is generally a safe way to get money in Russia. Some, however, have a very low cash limit per transaction, which may make your rubles expensive. You can also obtain cash from most banks with a card (Visa, Mastercard and Cirrus are the most widely accepted; problems may occasionally occur with Diners and Amex). Travellers' cheques are time-consuming and expensive to use.

Be warned that Moscow is an expensive city, and the daily cost of life there is up to three times that of St Petersburg. In the provinces, life becomes ridiculously cheap