Carnival , held on the Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday, is the most famous - a hedonistic two days of drinking and dancing in ornate and revealing costumes. In Trinidad , especially in Port of Spain, everything shuts down for two days, and increasingly three, as people use Ash Wednesday to recover. Other popular Trinidadian celebrations are the Islamic Hosay during May-June, and the Hindu Phagwa festival. The festival of Diwali , celebrated nationwidein late October, honours the Hindu goddess of light. Deyas - small oil-wick candles - are lit in every house.

For music lovers October's World Steel Band Festival , known as "Pan is Beautiful", features music ranging from classical to the latest calypso tunes. In May, the month-long steel-band festival Pan Ramajay is held, and December is the season of parang - nativity songs sung in Spanish, sounding more Latin American than Caribbean.

In Tobago the eagerly awaited Tobago Heritage Festival occurs in the last two weeks of July and features traditional customs, story-telling and festivities. The Charlotteville Fisherman's Fete , held on Man O' War Bay in the middle of July, is a wild beach party. On the Tuesday after Easter in Buccoo, crab and goat races are held. These bizarre spectacles are entertaining to watch - though for those betting they're no laughing matter. For the latest information on events and a festival calendar, contact TIDCO at 868/623-6022.