Most visitors arrive at Cairo . A seething megalopolis, its chief sightseeing appeal lies in its bazaars and medieval mosques , though there is scarcely less fascination in its juxtapositions of medieval and modern life, with fortified gates, villas and skyscrapers interwoven by flyovers whose traffic may be halted by herds of camels. The immensity and diversity of this "Mother of Cities" is as staggering as anything you'll encounter in Egypt, while just outside Cairo are the first of the pyramids that range across the desert to the edge of the Fayoum, among them the unsurpassable trio at Giza and the vast necropolis of Saqqara . Besides all this, there are superb museums devoted to Ancient, Coptic and Islamic Egypt , and enough entertainments to occupy weeks of your time.

However, the principal tourist lure remains, as ever, the Nile Valley , with its ancient monuments and timeless river vistas - felucca sailboat cruises being a great way to combine the two. The town of Luxor is synonymous with the magnificent temples of Karnak and the Theban Necropolis , which includes the Valley of the Kings where Tutankhamun and other pharaohs were buried. Aswan , Egypt's southernmost city, has the loveliest setting on the Nile and a languorous ambience. From here, you can visit the island Philae temple of Isis and the rock-hewn colossi at Abu Simbel . Other sites not to be missed are Edfu and Kom Ombo (between Luxor and Aswan) and - for those willing to chance their luck on the fringes of potentially risky Middle Egypt - the amazing temples of Abydos and Dendara (north of Luxor).

Only accessible to tourists in the last two decades, the Western Desert Oases are scattered across a vast, awesomely desolate region. Siwa , out towards the Libyan border, has a unique culture and history, limpid pools and bags of charm. Another option is to follow the "Great Desert Circuit" (starting from Cairo or Assyut) through the four "inner" oases. Though Bahariya and Farafra hold the most appeal, with the lovely White Desert between them, the larger oases of Dakhla and Kharga also have their rewards once you escape their modernized "capitals". And for those equipped to make serious desert expeditions, there's the challenge of entering the Great Sand Sea or tracing part of the infamous Forty Days Road . By way of contrast to these deep-desert locations are the quasi-oases of the Fayoum and Wadi Natrun , with their diverse ancient ruins and Coptic monasteries .

Moving north to the Mediterranean , Egypt's second city, Alexandria , boasts a string of beaches to which Cairenes flock in summer, and excellent seafood restaurants. Despite being founded by Alexander the Great and lost to the Romans by Cleopatra, the city today betrays little of its ancient glory; however, the ongoing underwater excavation of Cleopatra's Palace and (possibly) the legendary Lighthouse of Pharos may once more bring an air of majesty to Alexandria. Famous too for its decadence during colonial times, romantics can still indulge here in a nostalgic exploration of the "Capital of Memory", while further along the Mediterranean coast lie the World War II battlefield of El-Alamein and the Egyptian holiday resort of Mersa Matrouh .

The Nile Delta , east of Alexandria, musters few archeological monuments given its major role in ancient Egyptian history, and is largely overlooked by tourists. However, for those interested in Egyptian culture, the Delta hosts colourful religious festivals at Tanta , Zagazig and other towns. Further east lies the Canal Zone , dominated by the Suez Canal and its three cities. Port Said and Ismailiya are pleasant, albeit sleepy places, where you can get a feel of "real Egypt" without tripping over other tourists. Suez is grim, but a vital transport nexus between Cairo, Sinai and the Red Sea Coast.

Edged by coral reefs teeming with tropical fish, the Sinai Peninsula offers superb diving and snorkelling , and palmy beaches where women can swim unmolested. Resorts along the Gulf of Aqaba are varied enough to suit everyone, whether you're into the upmarket hotels of Sharm el-Sheikh , Na'ama Bay or Taba , or cheap, simple living at Dahab and Nuweiba . From there it's easy to visit St Catherine's Monastery and Mount Sinai (where Moses received the Ten Commandments) in the mountainous interior. With more time, cash and stamina, you can also embark on jeep safaris or camel treks to remote oases and spectacular wadis.

Egypt's Red Sea Coast has more reefs further offshore, with snorkelling and diving traditionally centred around Hurghada , while barely-touched reefs further south from Port Safaga to Mersa Allam beckon serious diving enthusiasts. Inland, the mountainous Eastern Desert harbours the Coptic Monasteries of St Paul and St Anthony , Roman quarries and other antiquities, and dramatic rockscapes seen by few apart from the nomadic Bedouin.