Nepal has one of the least developed road networks in the world. Of the few highways that are paved, only one is wide enough for two buses to pass without having to slow down or go over onto the shoulders. Highways are irregularly maintained, and each monsoon takes a toll on road surfaces, so in the space of one year a stretch of road can go from wonderful to hellish (or vice versa). Whenever and wherever you travel, the route will probably be new in parts, disintegrated in parts, and under construction in parts.

The state of Nepal's roads has had an unfortunate effect on tourism. Most travellers just aren't willing to endure the long, bumpy, cramped journeys it takes to get far afield in Nepal, so they stick to a circuit of a few easily accessible destinations in the middle of the country. In response, private operators have created tourist bus services between these destinations, making them even easier to get to, and making everywhere else seem even more out of reach. The result is a well-worn path between a few rather un-Nepali tourist ghettoes. Ironically, while most "independent" travellers are packing themselves together in these budget barrios, nowadays it's the group tourists who are doing a better job of getting off the beaten path by air and private vehicle.

If you're on a budget, don't allow yourself to be limited by the tourist buses. There are other, increasingly affordable options. For example, in the main cities you can hire a motorcycle, or club together with two or three others to charter a taxi on a daily rate. For longer journeys, consider going by hired jeep or van, or if you've got the time, by mountain bike. And don't rule out flying , even if only one way, which can make possible itineraries that would otherwise seem out of the question.