BARGAINING There is no real tradition of haggling, although you can always try it when buying pricey artwork, antiques, etc. Expensive services such as excursions and car rental are obvious candidates for bargaining sessions while hotel room rates can be beaten down, off season, late at night or if you're paying cash ( efectivo ). But try and be reasonable, especially in the case of already low-priced crafts or high-quality goods and services that are obviously worth every centavo.

CONSULATES A very large number of countries from all five continents have embassies in Buenos Aires, mostly in the Barrio Norte, but in the provinces few countries maintain consulates. In the big provincial capitals you'll find diplomatic missions representing some other South American countries, along with those European countries with large communities in Argentina, especially Italy, Spain, Germany and Switzerland, plus the Netherlands.

EARTHQUAKES Seismic activity is very much a reality in western and, to a lesser extent, in northwestern Argentina, since the Andes lie along one of the world's most unstable fault lines. Some of the planet's strongest ever quakes have hit the cities of San Juan and Mendoza over the last hundred and fifty years. Since then all buildings have been quake-proofed. It's unlikely that you'll find yourself in a violent tremor but, if ever you do, the first rule is not to panic. Don't use lifts or rush out into the street, whatever you do - this is how most injuries and fatalities are caused. Electricity supplies are programmed to go down if the quake is over five on the Richter scale.

ELECTRICITY 220V/50Hz is standard throughout the country. The sockets are two-pronged with round pins, but are different to the two-pin European plugs. Adapters will probably be needed and can be bought at a string of electrical shops along Calle Talcahuano, in Buenos Aires; some but not all of the multi-adaptors on sale at airports will do the trick, so check the instructions.

HOMOSEXUALITY The word that best sums up the attitude to gay men and lesbians in Argentina is ambivalence. Discreet relationships are quite well tolerated, but in this overwhelmingly Roman Catholic nation any "deviance", including any explicit physical contact between members of the same sex (let alone transvestism or overtly intimate behaviour) will be almost universally disapproved of, to say the least. Violent manifestations of homophobia are rare, however, especially now that the Church and the military have less influence on mores. Gay and lesbian associations are springing up in the major cities, notably in Buenos Aires, where nightlife and meeting places are increasingly open, but rural areas still do their best to act as if homosexuality doesn't exist. The same goes for even the most liberal-minded parents and, in this country where psychotherapy has become a pseudo-religion, don't be surprised to see analysts and "parapsychologists" advertising their "cures" - even in gay magazines. Arbitrary decisions by the mysterious but powerful National Media Commission in recent months have resulted in raids at the offices of NX , the main gay and lesbian magazine (on sale in kiosks in downtown Buenos Aires and other big cities), because it printed pictures of "two men dangerously close to each other".

LAUNDRY Most towns and cities have a plentiful supply of laundries ( lavanderA­as or lavaderos ), especially since not everyone has a washing machine. Laverap is a virtually nationwide chain of laundries and is mostly dependable. Some of them also do dry-cleaning, though you may have to go to a tintorerA­a . Self-service places are almost unheard of; you normally give your name and leave your washing to pick it up later. Laundry is either charged by weight or itemized, but rates are not excessive, especially compared with the high prices charged by hotels. Furthermore, the quality is good and the service is usually quick and reliable. One important word of vocabulary to know is planchado (ironed).

PHOTOGRAPHY Photographic film is not cheap and black-and-white and fast films, especially slides, are not always easy to lay your hands on, though standard film, of all brands, is widespread and reliable. Since fast film is recommended in places like the altiplano, bring a plentiful supply with you, and the same goes for all camera spares and supplies, which sell for exorbitant prices here even in the rare duty-free zones. Developing and printing are usually of high quality but are also quite expensive; slides aren't processed in that many places and black-and-white film won't always be accepted - outside Buenos Aires the situation is extremely erratic. A constant, how ever, is that you should watch out where you take photos: sensitive border areas and all military installations, including many civilian airports, are camera no-go areas, so keep an eye out for signs and take no risks.

STUDENT CARDS These are not as useful as they can be in some countries, as museums and the like often refuse to give student discounts. Some bus companies, however, do give a 10-15 percent discount for holders of ISIC cards, as do certain hotels, laundries and outdoor gear shops, and even one or two ice-cream parlours. ASATEJ, Argentina's student travel agency, issues a booklet that lists partners throughout the country. The international student card often suffices for a discount at youth hostels in the country, though membership of the Youth Hostelling Association may entitle you to even lower rates.

TELEPHONE JACKS Argentina uses international standard telephone jacks (the same as those used in the USA), compatible with all standard fax and email connections.

TIME DIFFERENCES After some confusing experiments with daylight saving and even different time zones within the country, Argentina now applies a standard time throughout the year, nationwide: three hours behind GMT.

TIPPING Apart from the odd rounding up of taxi fares, for example, tipping is not common in Argentina. Restaurant bills increasingly include a percentage for service but any extra gratuity ( propina ) is discretionary. That said, PorteA±os have always traditionally tipped when eating or drinking out - recent austerity seems to have killed that custom off, or at least curtailed it.

TOILETS Occasionally central city squares include public toilets among their facilities, but otherwise public toilets or baA±os (men: caballeros, hombres, varones or seA±ores ; women: damas, mujeres or seA±oras ), are very few and far between. The toilets in modern shopping malls tend to be spick and span and are often the best place to head for. In bars and cafA©s the toilets are usually of an acceptable standard and not all establishments insist that you buy a drink, though you may be made to feel you should (the legal position is unclear). It's worth knowing that toilet paper (carry your own), hot water and soap ( jabA?n ) are often missing. In bus stations, airports and large shops there is often an attendant who keeps the toilets clean and dispenses toilet paper ( papel higiA©nico ), sometimes for a small fee, usually $0.50. Note that, in rural areas or small towns, toilet paper must often be left in a bin rather than flushed down the pan, to avoid blocking the narrow pipes.