By Argentine standards, Buenos Aires is currently suffering something of a crime wave, and incidents of violence and armed robbery (some by corrupt police officers out of uniform) are definitely on the increase. Portenos speak of these matters with mounting anxiety, and the De la Rua administration has vowed to make tackling crime and corruption a priority. It's sometimes difficult to know how much anxiety is due to a real increase in crime and how much to middle-class paranoia, but, in general, serious crime tends to affect locals more than tourists. Nevertheless, you should not take unofficial taxis from the airport and you're advised to be wary when taking a taxi from areas where serious money circulates (the new casino for example). Though Buenos Aires doesn't really have any "no go" areas, avoid walking around the quieter neighbourhoods after dark.

Taking some basic precautions will vastly reduce both the risk of you losing anything or of you getting into any situation you'd prefer not to be in. First, only carry what you need for that day, and conceal valuable items such as cameras and jewellery. Secondly, always try to look like you know what you're doing or where you're going, even if you don't: muggers and con-artists tend to pick on the less confident-looking tourists. Thirdly, if you're not sure about the wisdom of walking somewhere, play it safe and take a cab. Fourthly, always keep your bag secure - across your shoulders, rather than over just one - to cut out the chance of someone distracting you on one side whilst their accomplice snatches the bag from the other. Take especial care in markets and crowded places such as busy subway stations and bus terminals (particularly Retiro in the capital). Finally, beware of pickpockets operating on crowded urban buses and on Buenos Aires' underground. And in the rare event of being held up at gunpoint, don't play the hero. Locals warn that this is especially the case if your mugger is a kid, since they know that, as minors, they can't be jailed even if they shoot someone.

Theft from hotels is rare but, as anywhere else in the world, do not leave valuables lying round the room. Some hostels have lockers (it's worth having a padlock of your own), but in any case, reports of theft from these places are rare. Compared with other Latin American countries, you are extremely unlikely to have things stolen on buses , but it makes sense to take your day pack with you when you disembark for meal stops, and, particularly at night, to keep your bag by your feet rather than on the overhead rack.

Few of the more elaborate Latin American scams are practised here, but a weary one that still gets practised from time to time in places such as Buenos Aires is having mustard, ketchup, ice cream, mayonnaise or some similar substance "spilt" over you (often in the most unlikely of situations). Some "helpful" person (or persons) then offers to help clean it off, extracting your wallet or watch as payment. If this happens to you, push them off, get away from them fast and make as much noise as possible, shouting "thief!" (" ladron !"), "police!" (" policia !") or for help (" Socorro !"). Note, too, that, though the police are entitled to check your documents, they have no right to inspect your money or travellers' cheques: anyone who does is a con-artist, and you should ask for their identification or offer to be taken to the police station ( gendarmeria ). If you ever do get "arrested", never get into a vehicle other than an official police car.

Note that drugs are frowned upon in general. There is far more stigma here than in most European countries, for example, and Argentine society at large draws very little in the way of a line between "acceptable" soft drugs and "unacceptable" hard drugs. Drug use, particularly of marijuana and cocaine, is increasing amongst the younger generation, but you're very much advised to steer clear of buying or partaking yourself - the penalties are stiff if you get caught.

Women travellers are unlikely to experience any particular problems in Argentina: though you will receive plenty of male attention, it's very rarely threatening and far less likely to be backed up by the kind of aggressive drunkenness encountered in many European countries. A pervasive national custom is the piropo , a flattering comment made in the street, traditionally made by a man to a woman and often little more than a sharp intake of breath or a muttered exclamation, though sometimes far more elaborate and - occasionally - crude. Many, if not most, Argentinian women profess to enjoy receiving piropos and few find them offensive, but if they do irritate you, the best thing to do is simply ignore them.

It's always advisable to take photocopies of all important documents (passport with entrance stamp and entry card, airline tickets, insurance policy certificate and telephone numbers) in case of theft of the original: keep one with you, separate from the documents themselves, and leave another copy at home. And if you are unlucky enough to be the victim of a robbery ( asalto ) or lose anything of value, you will need to make a report at the nearest police station for insurance purposes. This is usually a time-consuming but fairly straightforward process. Check that the report includes a comprehensive account of everything lost and its value, and that the police add the date and an official stamp ( sello ). These reports do not cost anything.