BOOKS There are bookshops with English-language publications in ReykjavA­k and Akureyri, but prices are extortionate - about 1900kr for a paperback novel.

ELECTRICITY is 240v, 50Hz AC. Plugs are round pin with either two or three prongs; appliances fitted with overseas plugs need an adaptor.

LAUNDRY Outside of ReykjavA­k, which has two public laundromats , you'll only find laundry facilities at accommodation or better-equipped campgrounds.

NAMES Icelanders have a given name, plus the name of (usually) their father with an attached "-son" for boys and "-dA?ttir" for girls. So, JA?n's son Gunnar is called Gunnar JA?nsson, and his daughter NjA?la is called NjA?la JA?nsdA?ttir. Because of this lack of family names, telephone directories are arranged by given names - using the above example, you'd find Gunnar JA?nsson under "G", and NjA?la JA?nsdA?ttir under "N" in the phone book. In an effort to preserve national identity, all foreigners taking Icelandic citizenship must also take an Icelandic name.

PHOTOGRAPHY Print and slide film and processing are readily available in ReykjavA­k, Akureyri, and most supermarkets elsewhere, but like everything else, are very expensive - bring all you'll need.

SOUVENIRS Icelandic woollen sweaters are a practical momento of your trip, and cost around 8000kr. Their characteristic patterns derived around a century ago from Greenland's traditional costumes. As almost all are made in cottage industries, consistent patterns, colours, sizes, shapes and fittings are nonexistent - shop around until you find the right one. Woollen hats and mittens are also good buys; as are proverbially warm eiderdown duvets, stuffed with locally collected duck feathers (very expensive, however); and better-value smoked salmon.